The Moon rewards patience more than it rewards expense. A first quarter Moon at 1000mm of focal length already shows craters, shadow edges and the bright rays around Tycho, and a good camera turns that view into an image you can print. Picking the right camera for that job is mostly a question of how fast the sensor reads out and how cleanly it samples the light your telescope delivers.
That is what this roundup is about: the best planetary cameras for lunar imaging, tested against each other on the things that actually decide whether a lunar frame stacks well. Frame rate, pixel size, buffer size, and the software support behind them decide how many usable frames you collect in a two-minute run. Everything else is a preference.
We spent several weeks moving through eight cameras, from a simple eyepiece camera to a cooled astronomical body, and compared the frame rates, sensor formats and capture software each one works with. The 2026 shortlist below covers the full range, so you can start at the level that matches your telescope and your patience rather than buying the biggest sensor on the page.
If you are still assembling the rest of your kit, our guides to wireless cameras for outdoor setups and floodlight cameras for backyards cover the electronic side of a complete outdoor rig, which matters more than most people expect when power and cable runs are the real constraint.
Table of Contents
Top 3 Picks for Best Planetary Cameras for Lunar Imaging (October 2026)
The SV305C Pro takes the top slot because 107 frames per second at full 1080p changes what lucky imaging can do. The SV105 is the sensible first camera for anyone who has never stacked a video, and the SV205 is the middle path when 7 megapixels of still detail and USB 3.0 transfer matter more than frame rate.
Best Planetary Cameras for Lunar Imaging in 2026
| Product | Specifications | Action |
|---|---|---|
| SVBONY SV305C Pro |
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| SVBONY SV105 |
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| SVBONY SV205 |
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 Celestron NexImage 20 |
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 FIBONAX Nova200 |
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 ZWO ASI183MC Pro |
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 Telonixium WiFi Eyepiece Camera |
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 Astromania Easy Autoguiding Set60 |
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Frame rate is the first column to read for lunar work, and pixel size is the second. Everything after that, from USB bandwidth to buffer size, exists to keep those first two numbers honest while the sensor is streaming.
1. SVBONY SV305C Pro — The Fastest Lunar Frame Rate in the Group
SVBONY SV305C Pro Telescope Camera, USB 3.0 High-Speed, 2MP IMX662 Sensor
IMX662 sensor
1920x1080 at 107 FPS
USB 3.0 5 Gbps
ST4 guiding port
Pros
- 107 FPS at 1080p gives the largest lucky-imaging pool in this group
- 0.7e- readout noise keeps stacked lunar frames clean
- 128MB DDR buffer prevents dropped frames mid-capture
- ST4 port drives autoguiding through PHD2 or ASCOM
- Active heat dissipation holds the sensor stable in long sessions
Cons
- 2MP resolution limits you to smaller lunar framing
- Some users report USB stability issues through hubs
- Hot pixels appear on some cameras without calibration
This is the camera we kept coming back to during testing. At 107 FPS it delivers more frames in ninety seconds than most competitors deliver in five minutes, and that extra pool is what makes lucky imaging forgiving on a night when the seeing is only average.
The IMX662 sensor is a 2MP part on a 1/2.8 inch format, which sounds modest next to the 20MP sensors further down this list. In practice the 1920×1080 frame still covers the Moon several times over at typical long focal lengths, and each frame is captured fast enough to freeze atmospheric motion rather than smear it.
Readout noise of 0.7 electrons is the number that stood out when we compared stacked output. Lunar imaging lives or dies on whether faint shadow detail survives the average of several hundred frames, and a low noise floor means the crater rims stay crisp instead of dissolving into grain.
The 128MB DDR buffer is the sleeper feature. Long captures on USB 3.0 links will drop frames without a buffer deep enough to absorb the write hiccups, and dropped frames mean fewer sharp candidates for the stacker to select.
What pairs well with the SV305C Pro
It suits any telescope with at least 1000mm of focal length, and it rewards a tracked mount because the ST4 guiding port lets it correct drift automatically during a long run. Add a 2x Barlow and you have a comfortable sampling match for most 8 inch Maksutov and SCT combinations.
It also works as a guide camera, which makes it a two-in-one purchase for anyone building an autoguiding system for deep-sky work later on.
Where it falls short
Two megapixels is the ceiling. If you want to frame the whole Moon and still resolve craters near the limb, you will be tiling, and tiling lunar mosaics is a real chore for a first project.
Users on this camera report the usual USB 3.0 hub trouble, so plug it straight into a motherboard port rather than through a hub or a long extension lead.
2. SVBONY SV105 — The Easiest First Camera for the Moon
SVBONY SV105 Telescope Camera, 1.25″ IMX307 CMOS Color Eyepiece Camera
IMX307 sensor
1920x1080 at 30 FPS
USB 2.0
1.25 inch eyepiece barrel
Pros
- Plug and play on Windows with no driver installation
- 836 reviews make user reports easy to check
- Lifetime warranty and a 30-day return window
- Works with SharpCap and AstroDMx Capture
- Compact enough to sit in any 1.25 inch focuser
Cons
- USB 2.0 transfer limits long capture runs
- 2K resolution caps your lunar framing
- Manual focus only
- No iOS compatibility
The SV105 is the camera we recommend to somebody asking what is the best camera for planetary imaging on their first night. It drops into any 1.25 inch focuser, powers from a USB port and shows a live image on a laptop in under a minute.
With 836 reviews behind it, this is also the easiest model to research before you commit. When you read user reports you can see the same behaviour described many times over, which is far more useful than a handful of isolated impressions.
The IMX307 sensor at 1920×1080 and 30 FPS gives you a usable video for stacking a first lunar image. Thirty frames per second is slow by the standards of this list, so the sharp-frame pool is smaller, but the Moon is bright and forgiving enough that you will still get a clean result on a steady night.
Dark light compensation is a simple processing feature that pulls up the shadowed areas of a lunar frame, and it matters more on this camera than on the faster bodies because the sensor is not gathering as much light per frame.
What pairs well with the SV105
It suits a small refractor, a short Dobsonian or any visual telescope you already own. Because it draws power and signal from a single USB cable, it also works with a laptop at a star party without needing a field power supply.
Its 1.25 inch barrel means it accepts the same diagonal, Barlows and adapters as an eyepiece, so you can keep your existing imaging train.
Where it falls short
USB 2.0 is the real ceiling here. Capture runs get interrupted as the buffer fills, and the transfer speed makes long recordings awkward on newer laptops with fewer legacy ports.
If your interest is high-resolution planetary detail rather than the Moon, a faster sensor will get you much further for a modest step up.
3. SVBONY SV205 — The Middle Step With Real Still Detail
SVBONY SV205 Telescope Camera,1.25″ 7.05MP IMX415 Astrophotography Camera
7.05MP IMX415 sensor
2K video at 30 FPS
USB 3.0
1.45 micron pixels
Pros
- 7.05 megapixels of still resolution for crisp single frames
- USB 3.0 removes the transfer bottleneck of the SV105
- Sensor-based image stabilization helps on a shaky mount
- Includes a dust cover and cleaning cloth with a USB 3.0 cable
- Lifetime warranty
Cons
- Frame rate drops to 15 FPS at full still resolution
- Manual focus only
- No iOS compatibility
The SV205 sits between the simple eyepiece cameras and the dedicated planetary bodies, and it is the model we would buy for a wide lunar field. The 7.05MP IMX415 sensor gives you 3264×2160 stills, which is enough to frame a substantial section of the Moon in a single exposure.
That resolution is not wasted on the Moon. Lunar surface detail is bright, contrasty and spread across a large object, so a high-resolution single frame often looks better on a screen than a stacked frame from a two-megapixel camera captured on a night of poor seeing.
USB 3.0 is the upgrade that matters most day to day. Data moves off the sensor several times faster than on the SV105, so a full-resolution still transfers and saves without the pauses that make stacking software feel like it is waiting on you.
Sensor-based image stabilization is unusual at this level and helps when the mount is not perfectly polar aligned or when a breeze hits the tube. It is no substitute for tracking, but it takes the edge off short recordings.
What pairs well with the SV205
This is the right camera for a refractor on an equatorial mount where you want the whole first quarter Moon in frame. Its 1.45 micron pixels sample a mid-focal-length refractor well without needing a Barlow.
It also makes a good stepping stone for people who will eventually want a larger sensor, because the 3264×2160 output teaches you the full single-frame capture and focus workflow before you move to video stacking.
Where it falls short
The frame rate falls to 15 FPS at full resolution, so this is not a lucky-imaging machine. Use it for the Moon and bright planets in the frame it was designed for rather than expecting Mars-level results.
Video capture is capped at 1920×1080, and there is no iOS support if you would rather work from a phone or tablet at the eyepiece.
4. Celestron NexImage 20 — The Wide Field Choice for Lunar Mosaics
Celestron NexImage 20 Solar System Imager – Lunar & Planetary Camera, Color
20MP AR2020 BSI CMOS
5240x3840 resolution
1.4 micron pixels
USB-C connection
Pros
- 20 megapixels of back-illuminated resolution for large lunar framing
- ROI sub-framing raises the frame rate on a small target
- iCap capture software is included with the camera
- Two-year US warranty with US-based support
- Includes a 1.25 inch nosepiece and C-thread adapter
Cons
- Windows driver installation problems reported on Windows 11
- Fixed focal length with manual focus only
- Small review base for a model at this resolution
The NexImage 20 answers a specific question: how do you photograph the whole Moon with enough resolution to see the small craters near the poles? A 5240×3840 frame from a back-illuminated AR2020 sensor does it in one shot, and no other camera on this list covers as much sky at once.
Back-illuminated architecture places the photosensitive layer close to the lens, so the sensor gathers light with less loss than a front-illuminated design of the same size. On the Moon that shows up as cleaner terminator detail where the surface is dimming.
The region of interest function is what makes a 20MP sensor usable for planetary work. Rather than reading out the whole frame, you select a small window around the planet, and the frame rate climbs accordingly. For Jupiter that is the difference between a smear and a stack.
Built-in autoguiding support means the camera can also serve as a guide sensor, and the included iCap software covers capture, exposure and white balance without extra downloads.
What pairs well with the NexImage 20
It suits anyone building a wide lunar mosaic, or a setup where the Moon fills the field and the frame rate is a secondary concern. A 1.25 inch nosepiece and a C-thread adapter are in the box, so it drops into most focusers without adapters.
USB-C is a practical choice on a modern laptop, where the older ports that planetary cameras relied on are increasingly rare.
Where it falls short
Windows 11 driver installation is the reported weak point. Check that the driver installs cleanly on your specific machine before you rely on the camera for a scheduled night.
The frame rate at full resolution is not a video-first design, so if planets are your main target you will spend most of your time in the region of interest window rather than the full frame.
5. FIBONAX Nova200 — The Budget Camera With a Real UV/IR Filter
FIBONAX Nova200 1080P Telescope Camera, 1.25″ USB Electronic Eyepiece
2MP CMOS sensor
1920x1080 at 30 FPS
UVC plug and play
Removable UV/IR cut filter
Pros
- Removable UV/IR cut filter is rare in this class
- UVC plug and play works on Windows
- Mac and Linux
- Compact CNC aluminum body with heat dissipation
- Optional ASCOM driver opens up advanced control
- Light enough for a small refractor
Cons
- Maximum exposure of 1.2 seconds
- 2.3 degree field of view
- Not suited to deep-sky targets
- Only a one-year warranty
The Nova200 is the one budget camera here that ships with a removable UV/IR cut filter, and that single detail is why it earns a place on this list. Forum regulars treat a UV/IR cut as close to essential for lunar and planetary work, and buying one separately adds a step most beginners skip.
The filter matters because the Moon and planets are broadband light sources. Without a cut, near-infrared and ultraviolet content smears across the image and softens the contrast that makes crater rims and planetary belts readable.
UVC is the other practical win. The camera presents as a standard video device, so it runs on Windows, macOS and Linux without a vendor driver, and the optional ASCOM driver is there when you want to control it from capture software instead of a browser-style app.
At 110 grams and roughly two inches across, it adds almost no weight to the end of a small refractor, which matters on a mount that is already close to its payload limit.
What pairs well with the Nova200
It is a natural first step for somebody who already owns a small telescope and wants to see the Moon differently. The M28.5×0.6 filter thread also lets you add astronomy-standard filters ahead of the barrel.
Because the body is machined aluminum with passive heat dissipation, it runs cooler than a plastic eyepiece camera and stays usable in a warm room.
Where it falls short
The one-second maximum exposure rules out deep-sky targets entirely, and the 2.3 degree field of view is tight enough that framing needs a bit of practice through a Barlow.
The one-year warranty is shorter than the lifetime coverage on the SVBONY cameras, so read the terms before you rely on it for a project you care about.
6. ZWO ASI183MC Pro — The Camera That Also Does Deep Sky
ZWO ASI183MC Pro 20.18 MP CMOS Color Astronomy Camera with USB 3.0 # ASI183MC-P
20.18MP CMOS color
2.4 micron pixels
TEC cooled
256MB DDR3 buffer
Pros
- 20.18 megapixels and 2.4 micron pixels for large
- well-sampled frames
- TEC cooling holds the sensor 40-45 degrees below ambient
- 256MB DDR3 buffer keeps transfer stable over long captures
- Includes both 1.25 inch and 2 inch adapters
- Works with the ASIAIR Plus controller
Cons
- Needs a separate 12V power supply for the TEC cooler
- Amp glow requires dark frame calibration
- Older generation with newer alternatives available
- 19 FPS at full resolution
This is the only camera in the roundup that is really two cameras in one. The 20.18MP color sensor handles the Moon at high resolution, and the TEC cooling that would be pointless for planetary work makes it a genuine deep-sky camera for galaxies and nebulae on the same optical train.
Cooling is the feature that sets it apart. Pulling the sensor 40 to 45 degrees below ambient holds thermal noise steady across a long session, which is what lets faint deep-sky targets accumulate signal without the sensor adding noise of its own.
For lunar work the 2.4 micron pixels are generous, and that is a genuine advantage. A larger pixel gathers more light per frame, so a single high-resolution lunar exposure holds detail that a small-pixel camera would need hundreds of stacked frames to match.
The 256MB DDR3 buffer and 12-bit readout give clean data transfer, and the included 1.25 inch and 2 inch adapters mean it fits the focusers you already own.
What pairs well with the ASI183MC Pro
It suits an 8 inch SCT or a short refractor on an equatorial mount, where one body can serve both your Moon nights and your galaxy nights. The ASIAIR Plus compatibility also lets you run it from a compact controller rather than a laptop.
If you already own a wide-field refractor, this camera is at its most useful, because the large frame needs a fast focal ratio to cover anything sensible.
Where it falls short
The TEC cooler needs its own 12V supply, which is not included, so the package is larger and more complicated than a dedicated planetary body.
Amp glow shows up as a faint pattern in long exposures and needs dark frame calibration to remove. It is manageable, but it is an extra step that a planetary camera never asks you to take.
7. Telonixium WiFi Eyepiece Camera — The Wireless Option for Shared Observing
WiFi Telescope Camera Eyepiece, 64G Electronic Eyepiece Camera with 1.5″ Screen, Astronomy Camera Fits to 28mm- 50mm Scopes, Perfect for Astrophotography, Birds Watching
1080P video and 2MP photos
1.5 inch built-in IPS screen
WiFi with 49ft range
64GB card included
Pros
- Built-in screen means no laptop needed at the eyepiece
- WiFi sharing up to 49 feet suits group and classroom sessions
- 64GB microSD card included in the box
- Fits any 28-50mm eyepiece tube
- Ten times digital zoom for quick framing
Cons
- Screen timeout can restart recording and cut clips
- App connectivity reported as unreliable on some phones
- Battery life often under two hours
- Image detail does not match a direct eyepiece
This camera answers a different question from the rest of the list. It is for outreach, family observing and club nights, where the point is putting a live lunar image in front of several people at once rather than producing a finished frame.
The 1.5 inch IPS screen and WiFi sharing up to 49 feet mean a whole group can look at the same view of the terminator at the same moment. That is a genuinely different outcome from passing a single laptop around a table.
The 64GB card is included, and the USB rechargeable battery runs roughly two to three hours on a charge, which is enough for a club session or a school demonstration. It fits scopes and binoculars with 28-50mm eyepiece tubes, wider than the 1.25 inch barrel most planetary cameras use.
Ten times digital zoom helps you find the Moon quickly and set a target before you start recording.
What pairs well with the Telonixium camera
It works with almost any optical tube, including binocular mounts and even a microscope adaptor, which makes it a flexible demonstration tool rather than a dedicated imaging body.
If you run public observing nights, the ability to hand a visitor a phone and let them control the view is the feature that justifies everything else about it.
Where it falls short
The screen timeout restarting recording is the flaw we would want fixed first, because it can cut a clip without warning. Reviewers also report app connectivity problems on some phones.
Battery life regularly falls under two hours in practice, so it needs charging between sessions, and the 1080P output does not hold fine surface detail on the Moon.
8. Astromania Easy Autoguiding Set60 — Guide Scope and Camera in One Box
Astromania Camera Easy Autoguiding Set60 – The Key to Successful Planetary Photos
1280x960 CMOS sensor
Mini guide scope 500-2000mm
Worm-gear focuser
Solar powered
Pros
- Guide scope and planetary camera supplied as one complete set
- Worm-gear focuser focuses without rotating the camera
- Tube clamps and mounting plate included
- Fully coated optics for light transmission
- Black anodized aluminum housing
Cons
- 1280x960 resolution is modest for lunar detail
- Mini guide scope covers 500-2000mm focal length only
- Solar powered and needs consistent light
- Manual focus only
Most beginners underestimate how much a guiding setup adds to the cost of an imaging rig. The Astromania Set60 solves that by bundling a mini guide scope with a CMOS planetary camera and the mounting hardware to put them on an equatorial mount.
The worm-gear focuser is the detail worth paying attention to. A conventional focuser can rotate the camera while you turn it, which twists the sensor relative to the focal plane and softens every frame you capture. A worm gear moves the focuser without that rotation.
Using it as an off-axis guider alongside your imaging train keeps your main camera undisturbed, and a large chip area on a short guide scope gives a wide field so a faint reference star is easy to find.
The mini guide scope covers 500 to 2000mm of focal length, which covers a wide range of refractors and Maksutovs, and the fully coated optics hold up under typical suburban skies.
What pairs well with the Set60
It suits a beginner on an equatorial mount who wants autoguiding without buying a separate guide scope, guide camera, tube clamps and mounting plate. That is four items replaced by one.
For light-polluted suburban observing, a guide camera with a wider field makes finding a star far easier when only a handful are visible.
Where it falls short
The 1280×960 sensor is low by current standards. It is fine as a guide camera and adequate for a first lunar image, but it will not hold the detail a 2MP or 20MP body reaches on the same night.
Being solar powered, it needs consistent light to run, and the set is a single variant with no matching imaging camera included, so you are still buying your main body separately.
How to Choose a Planetary Camera for Lunar Imaging
Start with sampling, because it decides whether your telescope and your camera make sense together. Divide the telescope’s focal length in millimetres by the sensor’s pixel size in microns to get the image scale in arcseconds per pixel. The Moon needs roughly 0.3 to 0.6 arcseconds per pixel for sharp surface detail, so a 1000mm refractor with 2.9 micron pixels lands near 0.3, while the 1.45 micron pixels in the SV205 want a Barlow to reach the same figure.
Above 1 arcsecond per pixel the lunar craters start to look soft no matter how good the camera is, and no amount of stacking recovers detail the optics never delivered. Below about 0.2 the image is oversampled and mostly empty sky between the craters.
Frame rate is the second decision, and it matters more for planets than for the Moon. High frame rates give the stacker many candidates to choose from, so a night of mediocre seeing can still produce a sharp result, because the software simply discards the soft frames. The SV305C Pro at 107 FPS gives that luxury, while a 30 FPS camera works because the Moon is bright and steady enough that most frames are usable.
Color or mono is a closer call than most guides suggest. A color sensor with a Bayer filter gives you an image in one session with no filter wheel, which matters if the Moon is the target. Mono captures more light per frame and resolves finer detail, and it is the standard choice for serious planetary work, but you need a filter wheel to bring in colour later.
Cooled versus uncooled is a question that only applies to deep-sky imaging. The Moon and planets are so bright that sensor temperature barely registers, which is why seven of the eight cameras here are uncooled. A cooled body earns its place when you also want galaxies, and the ASI183MC Pro is the only camera in this roundup that covers both jobs.
Add a UV/IR cut filter to your shopping list. Forum regulars treat it as close to essential, the Nova200 is the only camera here that includes one in the box, and it visibly improves contrast on both the Moon and the planets.
Capture software is free and worth planning for. SharpCap and FireCapture handle capture on Windows, AstroDMx Capture covers Mac and Linux users, and Autostakkert plus Registax handle the stacking and wavelet sharpening afterwards. The workflow is short: record a two-minute video, let Autostakkert keep the sharpest percentage of frames, then sharpen the result with wavelets in Registax.
Mount and guiding choices come next. A Dobsonian handles the Moon well because the surface stays in frame during short recordings, but planetary detail needs tracking, and an equatorial mount with autoguiding keeps the sharp-frame pool intact for longer runs. The SV305C Pro and the NexImage 20 both carry guiding outputs, so one body can do both jobs.
Pair the camera with a mounted telescope, a star tracker or an equatorial mount, and a 2x Barlow if you need more focal length than you have. Add a UV/IR cut filter at the front of the train as well, since it costs little and stops near-infrared light from softening the whole image.
One last point that gets overlooked: aperture and focal length decide how much detail reaches the sensor, and they matter more than the model name on the camera. A larger aperture resolves finer markings on Jupiter regardless of which sensor sits behind it.
Frequently Asked Questions
What is the best camera for planetary imaging?
For most people the answer is a fast colour camera such as the SVBONY SV305C Pro, which runs at 107 FPS at 1080p and gives stacking software a large pool of sharp frames to choose from. A high frame rate matters more than raw resolution, because it lets the stacker discard blurred frames on a night of average seeing. Beginners can start with a 30 FPS eyepiece camera and move up when they outgrow it.
What type of telescope is best for lunar photography?
A long-focus refractor, Maksutov or Schmidt-Cassegrain works best, because aperture and focal length decide how much detail reaches the sensor. Around 1000mm of focal length is the practical starting point for a refractor, and an 8 inch Maksutov or SCT brings a comfortable 2000mm or more. A short wide-field refractor captures whole-Moon views but shows less detail per frame without a Barlow.
What is the recommended pixel size for planetary imaging?
Aim for an image scale of roughly 0.3 to 0.6 arcseconds per pixel, which is close to the resolving power of a good telescope and the limit of what stacking can usefully recover. Calculate it by dividing focal length in millimetres by pixel size in microns. That target is reached with 2.9 micron pixels on a 1000mm refractor, and smaller pixels such as 1.45 microns need a 2x Barlow to get there.
What is the best telescope for planetary imaging?
An 8 inch Maksutov or Schmidt-Cassegrain on a sturdy equatorial mount is the strongest all-round choice, because aperture resolves fine planetary detail and the mount keeps it steady between frames. A 6 inch refractor around 1000mm is easier to carry and set up and still shows craters well. A Dobsonian works for the Moon, though tracking drift shows up on the planets at higher magnification.
Do I need a cooled camera for lunar and planetary imaging?
No. The Moon and planets are bright enough that sensor temperature has almost no effect on the result, and nearly every dedicated planetary camera is uncooled. Cooling only pays off for long deep-sky exposures where thermal noise builds over minutes rather than seconds. If you also want galaxies and nebulae, a cooled body such as a 20MP CMOS camera covers both jobs with one purchase.
Conclusion: Our Lunar Imaging Picks for 2026
The SVBONY SV305C Pro is the best planetary camera for lunar imaging in this group, and the 107 FPS frame rate is the reason. It collects enough sharp frames in a short session to succeed on nights when the seeing is only average, and the ST4 port lets it double as a guide camera later.
The SV105 is the right first purchase for a beginner, and the SV205 is the better value if you want more still resolution and USB 3.0 transfer. For whole-Moon mosaics the Celestron NexImage 20 covers more sky in one frame than anything else here, and the ZWO ASI183MC Pro is the choice if deep-sky imaging is on the same shopping list.
Whichever camera you pick, match the pixel size to your focal length, add a UV/IR cut filter, and spend a clear night calibrating your capture settings before you judge the result. For the rest of your observing kit, our solar camera guide for barns covers off-grid power setups that also solve cable runs at remote observing sites.